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Honda Lowering Information
  HT Motorsports is the only company around offering Lowering (Drop) Spindles and Trailing Arms for your Honda. The Best way to lower your Vehicle: retaining 100% factory ride quality.

Honda / Acura Suspension
Lowering Info:

     Import Performance is a fledgling and largely appearance-oriented market. As the customer becomes more sophisticated and the market matures, we will begin to see consumers demanding more performance improvements to go along with their "slammed look". After all, the main reason for lowering a vehicle is to lower the center of gravity, thereby improving the handling and the stability of the car.

     Good suspension geometry doesn't just "happen". Sure, lowering your car improves handling, but if done improperly, it can create a host of other problems. Consumers won't be satisfied with all of the side effects they are experiencing by using the inferior lowering techniques that are currently so popular. Most of them don't even realize that coil-overs were originally designed for balancing the vehicle, NOT lowering it!

     Cut springs and "lowering kits" may offer the "look" they are after but not the handling. The handling net gain, if any, using common techniques is marginal due to the suspension geometry damage they inflict. They essentially cancel out any benefits gained by lowering the vehicle to begin with!

    Our SUPER LINK for the rear and SUPER TRICK STEERING KNUCKLE for the front give "the look" with guaranteed better ride and handling. And absolutely no adverse side effects!

     Honda engineers worked hard to develop a suspension that would perform well under a variety of conditions, (mostly where high ground clearance is a requirement). The geometry design (like that of any other vehicle) has its wheel travel limitations. Cut springs, lowering springs, coil-overs (when used for lowering), drop forks and drop arms, although different to one another, all have exactly the same harmful effect on suspension geometry because the suspension is running at the very edge (or outside) of its design limit. At this point the handling gets weird and can even be dangerous. Things like "Bump Steer" and "excessive negative camber gain" are all symptoms of improper lowering techniques. Excessive negative camber is responsible for a reduced tire contact patch area and rapid uneven tire wear. Reduced tire contact patch area = reduced traction = poor cornering ability = unhappy customer.

"Excessive Negative Camber Gain"

     We're all familiar with the unsightly (and costly in tire wear) stance of a poorly lowered car with excessive negative camber. The wheels look something like this:    / \ instead of like this: | | .The dynamic effect (when the suspension is moving) of severely angled suspension components is not corrected by a camber kit. Severely angled suspension components create huge changes in camber angles when the suspension moves. Let's say your car is lowered 2 1/2 or 3". The alignment was undoubtedly set with the car empty. Now you have 3 buddies cruising with you down the street. The vehicle weighs say, 700# more than it did empty. Your car could be riding as much as 1" lower than when the alignment was set. You have already generated some negative camber even before you hit a bump or enter a corner! Some of your tire contact patch along with its traction is already lost and the insides of your tires are wearing away with every single revolution they make, even if the static (not moving) wheel alignment has been corrected with the use of a camber kit.

"Bump Steer"

     Simply put, when the vehicle hits a bump, it steers itself (not necessarily in the intended direction). A change in the toe setting (alignment) as the wheels move up and down is referred to as bump steer. This condition is responsible for the twitchy handling you may have experienced during transition from the straight line into a corner and can be the reason for most high speed instability problems. Zero bump steer is ideal.

     When a vehicle is lowered improperly, the steering tie rods become angled upward as they connect to the steering knuckle. This angle creates an increase in "Toe In" as the suspension travels upward (as in hitting a bump). The result is the necessity for steering input by the driver just to keep the vehicle in a straight line. At speed this can amount to a whole lane change!